Neapolitan Food in New York

A few years back, my mom and I visited Southern Italy. It was my first time there. Not hers. She lived in Florence in the eighties and spoke the language. It came in handy when ordering at cafes and yelling at motorists, both of which we did quite often. We rented a little apartment in Naples and took day trips to Sorrento, Pompeii and Capri. In all their glory, these tourist destinations had nothing on the fresh, cheap food we ate on the busy streets of Naples every evening. In addition to a suitcase full of olive oil and cheese, I brought home a newfound appreciation for Italian food. I learned rather quickly that it’s more than just a meal, it’s a lifestyle.

It sounds extremely cliche and I will try my best to avoid the American abroad routine. But there is something so special about shopping for fresh produce and cheap wine every day. In an effort to bring the a taste of the dolce vita back to home, I created this restaurant guide. Join me today as I uncover Naples in New York.

Porto Rico Importing Co.

Starting off strong (literally), we’re heading to Porto Rico Importing Co. Run by the Longo family for over three generations, they have been a staple of the Village since 1906.

Walking in, you’re greeted by bags upon bags of coffee beans and the warm smell of espresso. The small shop operates as both a retail and a made-to-order location. You can’t really go wrong with anything on the menu. I opted for a cappuccino on this visit. But they strike a great balance between Italian classics and American alternatives.

While sipping, you can browse their impressive selection of bulk beans, loose leaf teas and other imported goods. They have a few locations across Lower Manhattan, but their original spot on Bleecker Street is a real institution.

Olio e Più

In an unpopular take, pasta is rarely my first choice at an Italian restaurant. Fresh antipasti and a brick oven pizza will always have my heart. Luckily, Olio e Più does it all quite well. 

Danilo Galati, the executive chef behind this trattoria grew up cooking with his grandma in their coastal town of Imperia. It’s clear these cherished moments are incorporated into every dish at Olio e Più. 

On this cool night, I shared a table of spaghetti carbonara, a beautifully cooked ribeye and two pizzas: bufalina and san daniele. Family style of course. Conversations flowed like wine. And of course wine flowed like wine. What more could you ask for? 

Dessert.

Ferrara Bakery

Arguably the best dessert item I had in Naples came in a jar. The rum baba. It’s a tricky little thing to find in New York, especially at a sit down restaurant. Enter Ferrara Bakery.

Nestled amongst the inevitable tourist traps of Little Italy, this spot is the ideal distance to walk off dinner and re-button your jeans. Ferrara is another family owned addition to the city’s rich pastry scene. They are still running the same Grand Street location they opened in 1892 and boy do they deck the halls during the holidays.

If you try anything in this guide, let it be their rum baba and sfogliatella. Brioche soaked in rum and pastry shell filled with ricotta and candied fruit, respectively. Don’t fret, they also have the other classics like tiramisu, cannoli and a lovely selection of gelato.

Now, it’s worth noting that there is no shortage of incredible Italian food in New York City. My choices today barely scratch the surface.

The Bronx’s Little Italy deserves its own guide. Neapolitan pizza alone deserves its own guide. And these are coming as soon as my wallet and waistline can afford it. Until then, let’s take the time to sit and sip and savor together.

Sincerely, the Itinerary New York Team

Sleepy Hollow Day Trip

In quite the unoriginal take, there's something truly exceptional about the first crisp morning of fall. It’s both an invitation to reflect and to refresh. To open your windows and trade stale air for cool breezes. To bring your light jackets out of storage. The ones you can only reasonably wear a month out of the year.

On this particular morning, it was not light jacket weather. It was, instead, an unseasonably warm Sunday in September. It was fall in nothing but the name. I left my apartment; dog and boyfriend in tow. We were trying our very best to catch the 9AM train out of Grand Central. There are few things that will get me out of bed this early on a weekend. A day trip to Sleepy Hollow, New York's famously haunted suburb, is one of them. For the past three years, when the trees begin to blush copper and yellow, we make the pilgrimage north. It has become somewhat of a tradition at this point.

Sleepy Hollow and Tarrytown are neighboring villages nestled along the Hudson River. During the off season, they're quaint commuter towns. Nothing more. But come fall, something shifts. Perhaps it’s the Headless Horseman making his ghastly return. Or Washington Irving running his annual PR campaign from beyond the grave - located conveniently in the nearby cemetery. Either way, these two local celebrities have kept The Legend of Sleepy Hollow alive and well since its inception over two hundred years ago.

Across the Hudson Valley, tourism has soared to new, post-pandemic heights. Sleepy Hollow is one of many nearby enclaves to grapple with an influx of visitors. Like us, many are coming directly up from the city, but others still are flocking from out of state. New York City's crackdown on Airbnb listings and the subsequent surge in hotel prices are redirecting some tourists to look for cheaper lodging in New Jersey and Westchester County. Local economies are loving the extra money; locals themselves not so much. This conundrum is hitting autumnal towns hard as crowds come to a peak during the cooler months. Across the Northeast, hubs like Salem, Massachusetts and Mystic, Connecticut share in the struggle. It puts an entirely new spin on spooky season.

We arrived at Tarrytown Station. It’s an hour trip on MetroNorth, with scenic views of the river and an almost guaranteed row all to yourself. Exiting the train, we huffed it up the hill to Main Street. Right on cue, the air began to chill. 

Main Street is lined with trees and seasonal decor, a fitting blend of florals and foliage. Offset by historic buildings, it’s home to a range of shops and restaurants. Thrifts, antiques, bookstores, bistros, and of course, coffee. I’ve experimented with a few different cafes in Tarrytown and keep coming back to Coffee Labs Roasters. Expect a line out the door.

Coffee Labs Roasters

Coffee Labs Roasters is eclectic and cozy. It features all the things you like to see in a local coffee shop: exposed brick, funky art on the walls, and a few themed drinks. I ordered an iced Great Pumpkin. From my understanding, it was just iced coffee with pumpkin spice and the milk of your choice. Marco got an iced chai with some flavored syrup. Both were massive; indulgence in surplus. Something for the coffee drinker and the boyfriend of the coffee drinker. Perfect. Done.

Founded by Mike and Alecia Love, the award winning shop has been around since 2003. The Loves work to ethically source their beans, partnering directly with farmers in El Salvador, Honduras and Hawaii, to name a few. They frequently visit such coffee projects, welcoming growers back to share the production cycle with New York communities. They just opened a second location this year in Eastchester.

24 ounces of sugar and caffeine was a prerequisite for what was to come next. Every September, Sleepy Hollow kicks off the season with a massive street fair. Beekman Avenue is overtaken by food vendors, artisans, entertainment and games, attracting crowds upwards of 20,000 (almost double the town's population).

A left on Broadway takes you directly over to the festival, past even more storefronts, the library and the high school. All beautiful, old buildings. The school's mascot is the Headless Horseman. You really can't beat that. Jack-o'-lanterns and giant skeletons line the street, the best display by far being in front of the local funeral home. The entire town has truly bought into its namesake. They are in on the joke.

We bobbed and weaved our way through the street fair, stopping every so often to peruse homemade wares and ogle the odd headless impersonator. Devoid of such festivities, Beekman is still more than worth a stroll. The streets of Sleepy Hollow proper are older than Tarrytown. Gritty and charming.

October and November offer a host of activities, like guided cemetery tours, weekly farmers markets, haunted hay rides and more. Their events calendar has everything covered. The Great Jack O'Lantern Blaze is at the top of my list for next year. Thousands of hand-carved pumpkins are illuminated against a backdrop of the Van-Cortland Manor.

Today, our sights were set on Bridge View Tavern, a local institution. No reservation, we hopped on line thirty minutes before their noon opening time - a tip I got after calling to see if they allow dogs. They do, by the way.

Bridge View Tavern

Bridge View Tavern sits atop a hill, overlooking the Tappan Zee, the nearby walking bridge spanning the Hudson. Sweeping views from the dining room highlight the Palisades Cliffs and the Sleepy Hollow Lighthouse. It's an American standby. A stone inlaid exterior gives way to wooden paneling. They have a great, big, old bar with local beers on draft. Marco opted for a sour IPA with hints of apple cider donut. Very on brand.

We were seated in their covered patio section and served promptly. The Harvest Salad came out first, a festive assortment of candied walnuts, cranberries, goat cheese and walnut mint dressing, served atop mixed greens. Then came the entrees. Panko Chicken Scampi and a Bacon Jam Chicken Sandwich, a recommendation from the server. It was all delicious, a blend of hearty and tangy with a hint of spice. That said, I would’ve mixed things up with an order of French Onion Soup or a burger. Their bison and elk burgers did catch my eye. Next time.

Bridge View doesn’t rest on its laurels, despite being deserving of them. It’s to the point, no-nonsense in the best sort of way.

From start to finish, the service was phenomenal. Everything came out promptly despite how busy they were. We, and the hundred or so others on line, got the full spiel on the tavern’s history and how they’ve been adjusting to the recent uptick in visitors. As a business, very well. As a town, not so much. Some residents avoid getting prescriptions the entire month of October. Others have to "get in line" to enter their homes. Others still are looking to move altogether. Mounting concerns of safety and wellbeing beg the question, are tourists always worth their tourist dollars?

After lunch, the three of us meandered along the waterfront; something I strongly suggest. Walking towards Philipsburg Manor, you pass the aforementioned lighthouse and Kingsland Point Park, a beautiful green space flanking the river. It's also a great opportunity to see some of the neighborhoods. Be warned, this is a long walk, about two miles all said and done. This was the first year I ditched a fall getup, heeled boots and all, and finally accepted my inevitable fate of embracing athleisure. Especially for day trips.

Philipsburg Manor and Sleepy Hollow Cemetery are located within blocks of each other. Both mentioned in The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, they are two of the town's most prominent attractions. The must-sees, if you will.

Phillipsburg Manor was, at one point, the heart of Sleepy Hollow. Prominent Dutch settlers during the eighteenth century, the Phillipse family established the manor's mill and trading post. These promoted regional farming and commerce, growing the town into what it is today. Visitors can opt for a paid tour, but walking the grounds and exploring the nearby Rockefeller State Park Preserve are completely free. Don't forget to stop by the gift shop.

Also free, the cemetery is hallowed, yet oddly inviting. It's sprawling: the hills dappled with old-growth trees and crumbling gravestones. Elaborate mausoleums are home to notable families like the Chryslers and the Rockefellers. I like to think they were fond of Washington Irving's work and chose their final resting places accordingly. Big fans.

Now comes a fork in the road. You have two choices ahead of you. If you’re spent and cannot fathom another fall-themed excursion, the nearby Philipse Manor station serves MetroNorth back to the city. On the other hand, if you could go for a seasonal scoop of ice cream, I have one more suggestion on your way out of town.

Main Street Sweets

I know ice cream isn't top of mind for autumnal desserts. Most would gravitate instead towards something fruity and fresh out of the oven. Just trust me. It's the perfect way to close out a day. Especially a day spent walking around in sweaters, scarves and seventy degree weather. The new standard of fall temperatures, so it seems.

We stopped at Main Street Sweets on our walk back to Tarrytown Station. As the name implies, it's situated right on Main. You really can't miss it. The shop is classic, with just enough space for a line of people and a few tables in the back. Opened in 2000, it's owned and operated by a mother and her two daughters. They serve a variety of sweets, everything from baked goods to milkshakes, and of course homemade ice cream. I tried their Sweet Cream Apple in a waffle cone and Marco their Mint Chip. It was some of the best ice cream I've had in a while. Something about the same familiar combination of cinnamon, nutmeg and apple, but in frozen form, was the perfect way to close out the day. I barely had time to snap a few pictures before booking it to the station.

Maybe it was the heat. Or the exhaustion. But 20,000 steps and two scoops of ice cream later, I was destined for a fantastic nap on the ride home. The true mark of a good day trip.

That's exactly what Sleepy Hollow offers: a good day trip. It's affordable and accessible. Cultured and just the right amount of campy. Like a Gilmore Girls, Tim Burton crossover episode. You walk a lot and eat a lot and take a lot of pictures and can still make it home at a reasonable hour. The same can't always be said for TikTok's "Top Fall Getaways Outside NYC." Don't get me wrong, I love apple picking and pumpkin patching as much as the next gal. But, too often they require a friend with a car or a friend with a trust fund. Or both.

For all Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow bring to the table, and amidst their ongoing and warranted city-slicker strife, I think being a responsible tourist is important. Shop locally. Tip well. Be nice and aware of your surroundings. Maybe let someone cut in front of you at the pharmacy or to get back into their home. I don't know. Just try not to lose your head.

• Transit

  Out of the city, you can catch the MetroNorth Hudson Line from Grand Central Station, with a few additional stops in Upper Manhattan and the Bronx. You can either stop at Tarrytown or Philipse Manor station. Assuming you’re traveling on the weekend, off-peak tickets are $11.25 per-person, each way. I recommend downloading the TrainTime app to view schedules and buy tickets.

• Pricing

  Train tickets and restaurants aside, this is a no-spend day trip. The landmarks are largely free to visit and the entire town is decked out so it can be fun to walk around and window shop. There are certainly paid options, like guided tours or souvenirs, but these are extras. Paid guided tours and Ubers are there for you, but for the most part unneeded.

• Bathrooms

  Warner Library
  These are usually a little busy, but are located in the center of town.

  Phillipsburg Manor
  There are two bathrooms inside the gift shop. I suggest going downstairs, there is rarely a line.

  DeCicco & Sons
  Bathrooms are located upstairs on their second level. It’s a cool space overall with lots of snacks and seasonal treats.

  Kingsland Point Park
  Will do in a pinch.

• Back Up Restaurants

  To start your morning, another great option is Muddy Water Coffee & Cafe, located on Main Street in Tarrytown. Like Coffee Labs, they too have some pretty solid seasonal items and a line out the door. Their food menu also looked more expansive.

  If you can’t snag a seat at Bridge View Tavern, I absolutely loved Mint Premium Foods. The Mediterranean inspired restaurant served a mean squash and truffle burrata and a cozy cup of butternut squash soup. Right across Main, I also liked Sweet Grass Grill. On Broadway, I’ve been meaning to try Horsefeathers and Lefteris Gyro.

  For something sweet that’s not ice cream, Noble Pies is another solid option. As you can see, Tarrytown seems to be the culinary center here.

Sincerely, the Itinerary New York Team